Beware of the bulb!

If you are new to the Grasshopper, I have a word of advice for you.  Well, four words actually.

Beware of the bulb.

Depending upon when a Grasshopper was made, if you look under the arm it will either look like this …

Or it will look like this …

If yours doesn’t have that grille over the bulb, do take care if you’ve had the light on and you want to move the machine. It’s very easy to pick up a Grasshopper the obvious way and not consider that if your fingers reach under the arm far enough to touch the bulb, you will find out how hot that bulb gets.

And you will then find out that the blister takes the best part of a week to go down, however quickly you get your finger under the cold tap …

Elna Grasshopper bobbin winding – how it works

From the design point of view, one of the many really neat things about the Grasshopper is the way that when you put a bobbin on the end of the motor shaft in order to wind thread onto it, doing so disconnects the drive to the motion i.e. your bobbin goes round but your needle no longer goes up and down when you start the machine.

Actually, let’s make that “should disconnect” the drive, because if you’ve just acquired a Grasshopper which has been seriously neglected, putting a bobbin on might not disconnect it.  In fact, you might not even be able to get a bobbin on to the shaft …

I can’t with that machine, which is in a really sorry state.  Apart from the surface rust, what’s stopping a bobbin sliding on to that shaft is shown in the picture below.

The wedge-shaped doohickey running along the top of the shaft in that photo is properly called the coupling key, and it’s that which is the problem.  It’s seized solid.  It can’t sink down into the groove it sits in, which is what it needs to do when you slide a bobbin onto the shaft.

Now, the best remedy for any problem with this particular bit of a Grasshopper depends upon three things – the precise cause, your expertise with things mechanical, and what tools and magic potions you have available.  So I reckon the way forward here is to explain how the thing’s supposed to work, so that you can decide for yourself how best to proceed with your particular machine.

That’s what it’s supposed to look like, and here’s how it all works.  The motor pulley and the gear wheel behind it are one and the same plastic moulding, so we can ignore the gear wheel part of it here and just talk about the pulley.

The pulley is actually free to rotate about the shaft, but it’s prevented from so doing by the  coupling key, which sits in that slot in the motor shaft.  Now, if you look again at that picture above, you’ll note that about halfway along the key, there’s a semi-circular depression in the shaft.  That’s actually a round hole, in which sits the spring which pushes the key back up when you push down on it.  It’s that key which locks the pulley to the shaft.

As photographed above, when the motor shaft turns, so does the pulley, because the coupling key has coupled them together.  Push a bobbin onto the end of the shaft, and as you push it further on, it pushes the coupling key down into its slot.  When the bobbin’s on as far as it’ll go, the drive to the motor pulley is disengaged, because what locks it to the shaft is the end of the key, which is now depressed into its slot by the bore of the bobbin.

If that doesn’t yet make any sense, it soon will …

In the picture above, the arrow is pointing to the end of a slot which runs along the bore of the pulley.  And what you can’t see is that the far end of the coupling key engages with that slot.  It’s confusing because there’s a notch in the coupling key just where it continues into the pulley, as will shortly become apparent.

Hopefully all will become clear when we take the motor pulley off, and to do that we first have to remove the circlip holding it in place.  We then need to take off the flywheel, because otherwise the pulley won’t come off the end of the shaft.

As we slide the pulley off, you can see there the (worn) end of the slot in it, in which the coupling key engages.  And when we take if off the end of the motor shaft, this is what we see …

There’s the coupling key pushed all the way up by the little spring under it, and you can now see the notch in it that I was on about earlier.  It’s the bit of the key to the right of that notch which fits into the slot in the motor pulley and so locks the pulley to the shaft, in order to transmit the drive to the motion.

There’s your slot in which the end of the coupling key engages.

Now you can see why, apart from anything else, this all relies on the coupling key being free to retract completely into its slot in the motor shaft and to spring back up again when pressure is taken off it.

If the key won’t depress fully and return properly, you’re stuffed until you work out why and free it up so it does.

If you can get a bobbin on all the way but the motor pulley is still locked to the shaft, frankly your guess is as good as mine.  All I can think of is corrosion of the shaft inside the pulley, or, and most likely, somebody who didn’t understand how it works has “modified” it …

Grasshopper versus Featherweight

As far as I’m aware, the Singer Featherweight 222K i.e. the free-arm version, was introduced in 1954.

That’s 14 years after Elna started production of the Grasshopper.

So where do people get this idea that the Featherweight was the first domestic free-arm sewing machine?

How to date an Elna #1 Grasshopper

Let me begin by stating that I don’t consider myself to be any kind of authority where the Grasshopper (or indeed anything else) is concerned, so what follows is not necessarily definitive.  It should, though, cover most eventualities, and hopefully be better than nothing.

OK, we start by lifting the access door on the bend in the arm, and noting the serial number, the first digit of which is the last digit of the year of manufacture …

Now, given that most Grasshoppers were produced between 1940 and 1952, the question arises as to whether this one is 1942 or 1952.  Similarly, any serial number starting in 0 or 1 is going to be ambiguous.  So how to tell?

First off, swing up the round plate which covers the access hole at the back of the column and see if there’s anything punched there like this …

If you can’t see that, get closer …

If there’s numbers, problem solved.  That’s the date of manufacture, in this case March 1952.

If there isn’t, and your serial number starts with 0, 1 or 2, your date of manufacture is most likely to be 1940, 1941 or 1942..  If that’s the case, the top of the motor housing on your machine will have a hump in the middle of it and/or the part of the knee-lever linkage which comes into contact with the back of the flywheel will be square-ish, not cylindrical.

Out of the 7 machines I have here right now, the only one without a date punched on the periphery of that access hole is the one with the serial number starting with a 5, and that has to be 1945 because production had stopped before 1955.

I have seen a date-stamp inside a motor housing done with an ordinary rubber stamp, and apparently some machines were rubber-stamped with a date underneath, but whether or not those could be taken to be its official date of birth I have no idea.

I know, I know …

It’s been ages since I posted anything.

Sorry folks, but I’m knee deep in other stuff right now and there’s a Grasshopper sitting here waiting to be parted out so I can list the bits on here.

And there’s a 110v Grasshopper motor I need to check over and get ready to list for sale.

And then I really do need to make my mind up whether the pair of oil cans sitting on the windowsill are for sale or not.

Oy vey!

And I’m not even Jewish …